Back to your camera, if you have a choice between shooting in sRGB or Adobe RGB, always choose Adobe RGB (which
has a wider gamut) for better reproduction of yellows and skintones. Once you ‘ve shot your image with a Colour
Profile, its a good idea to maintain that profile throughout your workflow (which you’re setting up here). Please don’t
use Nikon sRGB (not the same as sRGB and results in poor colour reproduction).

If your camera has the ability to use different white points for different conditions (e.g. cloudy, daylight, fluorescent,
etc.) go ahead and use them instead of keeping your settings on automatic. This extra control will help you get better
color out of your camera.

RAW or jpeg?
Most Pro DSLR cameras and many consumer cameras have the ability to capture images in RAW mode. RAW shooting
captures images in 16 bits per color, as opposed to 8 bits per color for jpegs and Tiff files, giving you more colour
information. This is great if you under or overexpose your images, because there is usually enough image information
in a RAW file to adjust exposure a couple of stops in either direction with PhotoShop (or your choice of RAW conversion
programs). So a RAW file becomes your Digital negative. Jpegs don’t allow for that level of image adjustment. The problem with RAW files is that you have to convert them to jpegs or Tiff files in order to get them printed. This means spending time adjusting your images with your conversion program.